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You want a house in the fairytale woods of Småland because a red and white cottage makes you happy when you look at it.

If that is not enough you can make sweet, light and utterly wonderful Swedish cinnamon buns (kanelbullar) like Morten makes them. Always a winner. Now you are happy happy.

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Or you can make delicious open faced salmon sandwiches (laxmacka)  like Jacob makes them. Truly satisfying.

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Your bike from the city will feel like a foal on grass for the first time. Cycling around here is just wonderful. Big smile.

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You are not alone out there. Central Sweden is moose territory but they are shy. So if you, unlike me, are patient you might see them live. Zen moment.

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On your way back to Denmark you can stop, not lock your bike because you trust, and have  a nice fika (coffee and cake) to give you strength to cycle the remaining kilometers. Still happy but a bit tired by now.

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So what do you say? Still want a cottage in Sweden? Heck yes!

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It is never too late to have a serving of dumplings, so this family seemed to think and by this credo we headed right to  China Town when we arrived in Yokohama one evening.

China Town is packed with restaurants, in fact that seems to be the only attraction there. So it was hard to choose one. Go into a side street and take a place that has a queue outside, that worked for us.

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I was magically drawn towards this restaurant because of the two ladies standing in an open kitchen preparing fresh dumplings. It was fascinating to watch one of them cutting dough in pieces and the other stuffing each piece of dough with the meat mixture, closing the dough around it in her hand and finally giving it a soft squeeze like holding a hamster and trying not to let it slip away.

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When we got our table after some ten minutes of waiting we were equipped with a Japanese menu only and we thus ended up ordering by pointing. Pointing towards the other table for this chicken and cashew nut dish and pointing to the wall for a choice of dumpling that was presented on a poster there. IMG_0285

IMG_0287IMG_0289P1030156Did we overestimate how many hamster-sized dumplings one person actually can eat? Yeah, maybe a little. We had thirty dumplings, steamed and grilled, and we were and the verge of exploding when we finally left the restaurant. But it was worth it- what a joy! And prices were more than reasonable.

Somewhere in China Town
Yokohama
(follow the queues)

IMG_0302 IMG_0305I had read about this place on other blogs and I was hesitant to go there. Coffee is not my special interest so why go and seek it when travelling around tea-territory? But I have to say, even if you will be surrounded by western tourists (not masses of them, but there were no Japanese when we visited) and expats, the place is a gem!

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The one-man café serves only espresso coffee (and it’s variations with milk) and small cubicle shaped custard cakes. My man said that this was not only the best coffee during our trip but simply a  great cup  in general.

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Omotesando Koffee is not easy to find, I tried to remember Heidi’s instructions by heart, since my Japanese data for my smart phone was used up at that time. I succeeded finding it but that was only partially thanks to my very good sense of directions and mostly due to a good portion of luck (following a group of smart looking French people who walked very determined past us in a small alley- “where else should they be heading?!”, I thought) This is what it looks like from the street, maybe that can help you as well:

omotesandoomotesando koffee
somewhere in Omotesando, Tokyo
find a map here

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If you love your sushi, you have seen the documentary about Jiro. And also if you just love great documentaries.  Can I say that I was enchanted by the pieces of vinegared rice topped with raw fish shown in this documentary? That is certainly how it felt to me. The accurateness with which the fish is handled and served. The simplicity of the menu. The minimalism of the surroundings. The extreme focus on quality, expertise and knowledge about the food served. I had to experience this for my self.

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During our nearly three weeks in Japan, the only table booking I made was for the restaurant of Jiro Ono’s son in Roppongi. Jiro being a sushi chef more than 80 years old who still gets up every morning to run his three star Michelin restaurant. His son Takashi has opened his own restaurant in Roppongi Hills, also holding Michelin stars but “only” two. I felt that this was the better choice for me. P1030189

Upon entering we were greeted and immediately led up to counter where we were placed right in front of Takashi’s working station and the extremely friendly English speaking sous chef asked us whether we had any special preferences or allergies. No, so we jumped right into it and started with some wonderful sashimi, the only thing during this lunch for which we used chopsticks. We did as the others and ate all the offered sushi with our fingers, cleaning them in between on a small wet towel already placed on the table.

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I cannot even recall how many pieces we had in total. In the end we were offered some special pieces on top of the menu and I chose to try the o-toro, fatty tuna. It is the most precious piece of the huge fish and it definitely melts on your tongue but I must say that I enjoyed the lean and medium fatty tuna just as much.

All in all this was incredible sushi and I do not know how to ever go back to “western sushi”, we need avocado, cream cheese, mayo and garlic in order to give taste to the fish and rice combo. Here it was all clean and simple.

Sukiya-bashi Jiro is a fantastic sushi experience, it is also an expensive one. We paid about 25000 yen per person. But first and foremost for me it was the encounter with a group of seriously dedicated people for whom quality is all. This I will remember and be inspired by.

I cannot tell if this is the best sushi in Japan. I tried no other place. This might sound strange but there is so much great food in Japan and sushi is just one part of that.

If I should say one negative thing about this place it should be the fact that there were no locals. At all! We could hear from the conversations with the sous chef that all other guests also had seen the documentary. Takashi even offered us to take a photo with him in the end. Well, I will just try to ignore that part of my memory of this place because the sushi was sublime.

I have not had sushi since.

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Sukiya-bashi Jiro – Roppongi

The place is easy to find, just grab the “floor guide” of the Roppongi Hills shopping area when exiting the metro station.

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Oh how I love my cake in the afternoon. If a cup of tea goes along with it, even better. I am simply not that fond of coffee (uuh, now it’s out there!) and I will always prefer a good cup of tea over coffee. So Japan is my place, also in this regard. It seems that the Japanese always can squeeze in “tea time”, and they do it so beautifully.

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To me it seems arbitrary during what time of the day you eat what in Japan. Fish, rice and miso in the morning, the same in the evening, so I could always make a cake fit in the schedule.

These Japanese sweets filled with some kind of bean curd inside seem like an acquired taste to me- I never really have understood them. But at least they are not overly sweet and they never taste artificial.

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P1030160P1030204But even if you do not feel like green tea and bean sweets you will find something to satisfy your sweet tooth and quench your 5 o’clock thirst. One of my favourites is what they call “Royal Milk Tea”, an English black tea with warm milk. And who would say no to a carrot cake?


René

If possible, I think I like the people behind noma even more now then when I first visited the restaurant in November!

Today noma hosted the first MADMonday in their staff restaurant. MADMondays are a new initiative from the MADSymposium team around René Redzepi. Redzepi had opened the doors to his über-hyped restaurant’s staff area and invited everyone in to discuss creativity led by a panel of cooks and and other creative minds.

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Copenhagen is (still) cold and dark so it was wonderful to be greeted with a steaming bowl of chicken and vegetable soup upon entering noma. Wonderfully casual, no fancy pants hors d’oeuvres today (but with a lemony twist, yummy!)

Also I was expecting press, food- and non-food celebs and smart hang arounds. There were some of all these types but mainly the crowd was dominated by young and casual people and René and his people created an atmosphere that made everyone feel at home and the audience at ease to ask questions. Rasmus Kofoed with his (?) young kid in his arms, plastic bowls and spoons, wooden benches.

On those benches we spent more than an hour with René and his four guests, the Danish writer Knud Romer, chefs Paul Cunningham and Erwin Lauterbach and artist Tal R. They all spoke about what creativity means to them and their work. Like how restrictions and scarcities of fresh produce force you to use what you have at hand and make something out of it. Or how being in a dark black hole forces you to rise and think out of the box. How stealing ideas from others is not just tolerable but often the only way forward (well at Dante Alighieri’s times it even was a virtue…).

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The noma people were wonderful hosts who kicked us out in the end (“get out of here, we need to clean up” René told us when finishing) and gave us a cookie and a beer on the way.

Copenhagen is the place to be in the food world right now René rightly said. He knows that these times may be over very soon but he does his share to keep creativity going with this kind of events. Thanks for sharing and inviting, René!

studiesIf all the creativity talk leaves you with an urge to get out and into the kitchen, here is a challenge for you. Come up with a recipe including some of these ingredients from the shelves of the noma staff invention area (palm skin!!???).

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